Routes and Stories
Whether it's a linear route with a bus back, a circular day trip or a long distance challenge you are looking for, the Hebrides has something for you:
Day Trips
Richard Davies Stornoway - Uig Cycle Route
Stornoway - Uig Sands (West Coast of Lewis). 33 miles one-way, 66 miles round trip.
Of the many routes to cycle in the Hebrides, this one starts and ends on one of the busiest roads in the town of Stornoway but compared to mainland traffic, its all relative. You may see a few cars and have to pull over on the single track out in Uig but this is rare and the views and freedom found along the route from Stornoway to Uig sands is worth any amount of effort this 33 mile journey takes.
If you've arrived fresh off the ferry, then fortunately there are no major climbs for a few miles. Head out of Stornoway and take directions for Tarbert, turning left at the last roundabout along the A859. As you cycle out of Stornoway, you get a taste of what thousands of people come here for - the sight of the Harris and west Lewis Hills, drawing you like a magnet. Fortunately this is where you are going so don't despair when the almost lunar landscape of Stornoway's small industrial sector greets you on the Hebridean capital's South western outskirts. The road you are on is the road South to Harris and Tarbert and you will stay on this "double track" road for about eight miles before turning right at Cameron Terrace (Leurbost). You will know you are here, as you will have come down a long hill with a school, garage shop and a row of houses in front of you as you descend. Once past the School take the first right out towards Callanish and the West side (A858). As soon as you hit this road the traffic will ease and even the pace of the scenery seems to ease and take on the real Hebridean feel that is hard to pin down.
This road passes through some elongated villages with the most breathtaking views to your left as you cycle. It is well worth taking a break in Ach Mor to absorb the scene and imagine how the light changes throughout the year. Of course, with over twenty miles of cycling in front of you before nightfall you may want to carry on moving along some lovely straight roads with clear views for miles. There are no turnings to your left other than the one you want to take to Uig (B8011) and this is about a mile or so beyond the large forest of ghost trees on either side of the road. Apparently the Pine Beauty moth killed them all a few years back and the local landowner likes keeping them there for Woodcock shooting!
Again, when you hit the road to Uig, one of the longest cul-de-sacs in Europe, the traffic levels fall again as you find yourself in some of the most wild and rugged country. Not long after the turning you'll cross the Blackwater River and a few miles further on the Grimesta waters, which boast world famous runs of salmon. It might well be worth a break here during the summer to watch the river and see if salmon leap in one of the pools.
Carrying on you'll see the turning for the island of Great Bernera which you get to by crossing a bridge - one of only seven in the world which crosses the North Atlantic, so worth a trip for that alone. However Bernera has more to offer than just its transport link, much more. This digresses from the intended route so we don't turn off but continue on out into the really wild stuff and along the coastal road with mountains to the left and sea lochs to the right. The road becomes a single track with passing spaces. This starts with a long straight uphill climb and a double track section at the top. As you round the long bend going down to the left take a look South (dead ahead) for a spectacular photo opportunity of the Ulladale cliffs and Harris Mountains in the distance.
Once beyond this last section of double track you will pass through many small villages scattered willy-nilly along the road in no particular pattern. The community spirit is strong out here and the locals are very helpful and friendly.
Once the sea disappears from view on your right, you will head inland for a while before coming to a village called Carishader, where the sea will reappear again to your right. This area has salmon farms and a busy harbour at Miavaig where a number of boats and yachts are anchored throughout the year.
You are nearly at your destination now and the final leg takes you through Valtos Glen, which is lined with conifer trees. As you come out the end of this valley and over the top of the brow, you are greeted by a different light and the spectacular Uig sands in front of you. This is the place where the famous Lewis Chess men were found.
There is a shop, which sells all sorts of things including some camping supplies. In the summer the community centre is open for teas and coffees and three miles North lies Bonaventure restaurant, which serves fantastic food, cooked up by a French Chef no less! Baille na Cillie Hotel lies on the Northeast edge of the sands too.
There are several areas to camp and several B&B's in the area but it's best to book in advance as they can be booked up from time to time.
The road continues for another nine miles beyond here down to Mealista where you really are in the wilds. This is well worth the effort as there are some beautiful gems of beaches right down towards the end of the road. The worst thing about this route is that you have to go back the same way as far as Garynahine turning and it is with great difficulty that most tear themselves away from the peace, beauty, solitude and easy pace of living that Uig and it's roads offer.
N.Uist / Berneray / South Harris:
This is a stunning and unusual circular route in that it takes in two ferry journeys and lets you see two islands in a day!The starting point is the port of Uig on the Isle of Skye. You will take the ferry from Uig in Skye to Lochmaddy in North Uist, and return after a couple of days exploring Uist and Harris from Tarbert in Harris back to Uig.
When you arrive in North Uist, you can enjoy the arts centre Taigh Chearsabhagh and sculpture trail around Lochmaddy. When you have satisfied your curiosity in North Uist, cycle up the east coast to the small island of Berneray, which is linked to North Uist by a causeway and has some fantastic quiet roads which run metres from white shell beaches and look out over deserted islands. It's well worth taking advantage of these quiet roads and exploring the island.
The next island hop takes you from the ferry port at the end of the causeway in Berneray over to Leverburgh at the south end of the Isle of Harris. There is a good chance that you might spot some dolphins if you keep your eyes peeled on the way across!
Leaving Leverburgh, take a right hand turn at the T junction and follow the signposts for Rodel - after a pleasant 3 mile cycle you'll find yourself in the beautiful village of Rodel, which has a fantastic hotel set in a beautiful bay. The hotel serves sumptuous local produce in its restaurant and also serves snacks. St Clements Church in Rodel is also well worth a visit.
When you've spent enough time at Rodel, you may choose to spend a night in the fantastic bunkhouse, Am Bothan, in Leverburgh, or one of our excellent B&Bs in the area, Next you can cycle north up the incredible west coast, which takes you past the beautiful tropical sands of Scarista, Seilebost and Luskentyre with views across to Taransay (the Castaway 2000 island) Passing numerous white, empty beaches on quiet single track roads this really is stress free cycling. Heading east to Tarbert you pass through the Harris hills: a lunar landscape formed on the oldest rock in the world, eerie and empty but incredibly beautiful. Reaching Tarbert, where you will catch your ferry back to Uig in Skye, relax and enjoy a bite to eat in the lovely First Fruits Tearoom, or the Harris Hotel.
The Isle of Barra:
This is a fantastic circular route which allows you to see the whole island in one day and is just under 20 miles all in. Starting in Castlebay, this is an extremely relaxed and non-taxing way to see stunning scenery on quiet roads with outstanding wildlife and a unique gaelic culture. There is an optional detour across the causeway to the isle of Vatersay and then a cycle up the west coast past beaches, ancient standing stones, cairns, wheelhouses and statues. Then back to Castlebay (which looks over l Kismul castle, the home of the seat of the clan Macneil) to relax and experience the warm and friendly Hebridean hospitality, which is infamous throughout the islands.
Calanais Tour:
An easy, relaxing circular day trip on mainly very quiet roads. Approximately 30 mile round trip.
Leave Stornoway, turning left at the roundabout beside the Manor Filling station and heading south on the A859 towards Harris. Take the turn off on the right for Rathad a Phentland, the Pentland road, a single track road that winds across unspoilt moorland between lots of little lochans. When the road comes to a Y junction, take the left road for Achmore, where you will turn right on to the main road (the A858) for Calanais. At Calanais you'll find the remarkable Standing Stones of Calanais, older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids. Take time to relax and soak in the atmosphere, wondering how and why on earth our predecessors managed to form these giant megaliths in to a celtic cross thousands of years ago. The Calanais Visitor Centre has excellent interpretation and a tearoom with a lovely view over the Uig hills. For your return journey, turn left when you reach the main road (A858) and cycle approximately two miles to Breasclete, where you will find a right hand turn on to a single track road that will take you back to the Pentland Road. When you meet the Pentland Road, turn right and follow the road until you once again reach the outskirts of Stornoway.
Drinishader to Northton, Isle of Harris:
Leaving from the hostel at Drinishader, head west towards the famous beaches of Harris. Cycle past the beautiful beaches of Luskentyre, Seilebost and Borve: stunning golden sandy beaches with tropically blue-green clear water. Borve has a lovely tearoom, and further down you'll reach the beautiful Scarista beach, which looks across to the Isle of Taransay, where Castaway 2000 was filmed. At Northton there is a fantastic visitor centre, Seallam, where you can buy refreshments and learn about emigration and the genealogy of the Outer Hebrides. You could also try climbing the hill of Chaipaval, 365m, to catch a sight of the beautiful isles of St Kilda, with the highest sea cliffs in the UK. For overnight accommodation, try a local B&B, wild camping, or cycle further down the road to Leverburgh, where you'll find an excellent bunkhouse, Am Bothan.
26 miles to Northton, 30 to Leverburgh.
|